My iPhone Demands..

I need these features to be standard on iPhone -

  • DUN/PAN
  • Copy/Paste (Satisfied by iPhone 3)
  • Camera Zoom and Video Recording (Satisfied by iPhone 3G-S)
  • Being able to show calendar events on the home screen. I miss this one from my Treo days :-(
  • Voice Dialing (Satisfied by iPhone 3G-S)
  • Flash
  • I want the iPod Settings (for Equalizer etc) in the iPod app!
  • I want a bigger bluetooth stack

Video Converters..

I am currently evaluating several video converters in my attempt to backup my home videos. The problem is as I have stated before. I want to save them so that I can find them easily and also, I want to save them in an efficient way – from storage and quality point of view. I know both these points of views go tangential to each other, but still I want to reach a middle ground that I can live with.

Now what do I have ?

  • DVDs – Videos imported from old VHS cassettes and old VHS-C Camcorder cassettes – Mpeg-2 / AC3 audio (720×480)
  • miniDV cassettes (DV format – (720×480)
  • Mpeg-1 videos on Digital Camera – Mpeg-1 / MP2 audio (640×480)

What do I want the output format to be? I have chosen mpeg-2 as my universal output format. AVI is out of question (will take too much storage space), mpeg-4 DivX or XviD..? hmm.. not sure, it is more for the web and there is too much compression there.

Anyways, so I looked at the following:

  • MPEG_Streamclip : Works if you choose “Convert to MPG with MP2 audio” or “Convert to Headed MPEG” which gets AC3 audio. It is Free!
  • SUPER from eRightSoft : Too technical but does its job. And it is Free!
  • TMPGEnc XPRESS : Too expensive ($99). Did not try.
  • AVS Video Converter : You have to pay $59. I have read mixed reviews
  • OJOSoft Total Video Converter : Did the job well. You have to pay $26.99 however. If I feel like buying something, I might go for it.

I vote for MPEG_Streamclip or SUPER obviously because they are Free! Still working on finding the easiest and fastest solution for this.. will keep updating this post I guess.

In the meanwhile, anybody has any other suggestions/comments?

How do you store Camcorder Videos?

I am investigating this for far too long.. I need some input on how others are doing it. I have done the usual Google search on this a lot, but nothing has convinced me on what is the best way to store your memories. I totally believe that leaving your videos on miniDV tapes is quite inefficient -

  1. You can’t find the video you want quickly
  2. You have to buy a new tape when you are out of blank tapes
  3. Tapes can get damaged / tangled overtime (has already happened to me and I am using a professional repair shop to get my tapes fixed – Pacific Video Repair)

I was thinking of backing up my camcorder videos to external hard drives. Backup to DVDs is not so attractive – although I have done it before, since, again, finding a video quickly is an issue and DVDs can get damaged too. I have already moved my old VHS-C videos to miniDVs and then to DVDs long time ago.

There is a question about the right format too. If I back them up in an uncompressed format like AVI, I know it will take a huge amount of storage space. Hundreds of Mb’s will just fit a few minutes of video. Also if you have your hard drive in FAT32 format, then you have the 4GB / file limit. Of course, now-a-days it is usually NTFS. But on the other hand, is it wise to use compressed formats such as mpeg2 – DVD / mpeg4 – DivX/XviD etc. ‘coz you will lose some detail there in the compression? How will the resulting video look on a 50+ inch TV? Well, DVDs look good, so it should be okay?

Installing Ubuntu on External USB Hard Drive

Okay.. so this is not new and I am not trying to reinvent the wheels many others have spun already! All I am doing here is to mention some of the things they have missed which cause a lot of grief when you are trying to get this done. So this is essentially a add-on to posts like these http://www.pendrivelinux.com/installing-ubuntu-to-a-usb-hard-drive/ but with the missing pieces that I found elsewhere.

Use Case:

  • I have a primary machine running Windows or Mac or whatever
  • I have an external 3.5″ or 2.5″ hard drive (~17GB – 20GB) that I pulled out of my old desktop or laptop resp. This is not a flash drive btw, although I have done this kind of setup for the flash drive as well (I will have it on this blog soon)
  • I want to use this COMPLETE disk for Linux WITHOUT disturbing my Windows or Mac machine.
  • I do not want to install a bootloader on my primary machine, so I am not looking for dual boot. This is a completely separate install on this second hard drive.

Prerequisites:

  • Obviously you need a machine that you are going to use with this external drive. (Obviously you need a Processor, Keyboard, Mouse, Display, Network card.. the whole works except the hard disk! :-)
  • The BIOS on this machine should support booting from external USB drive.

Get Ready:

  • Get rid of all the data on the external hard drive aka transfer it or trash it if you don’t need it. Preferably format it completely (NOT quick format).
  • Make sure you run a chkdsk (if you are a windows user) like utility on the disk to make sure it is in good state. This happened to me on one drive and the installation of ext3 partition just stalled everytime.
  • Download the Ubuntu ISO from the Ubuntu site and burn it to a CD using your choice of ISO writer software. I think there is a ISO Recorder PowerToy for XP as well.
  • Shut down your machine.
  • Connect your external hard drive now.
  • Make sure you have this CD (called the Live CD) in the CD drive and start your machine.
  • BIOS Changes: Be quick and hit F12 or F2 or whatever key it is that allows you to get into the BIOS settings of your machine when it starts. Now make sure you have the following Boot order for these 3 media: CD, USB Drive, Local Hard Disk.

Step-By-Step:

  • Thanks to the boot order in the BIOS, your machine should boot from the CD.
  • Now select “Install Ubuntu” and proceed till you get to the Partitioner stage.
  • Here is where you need to be awake if you want to avoid a huge frustration later on!! I can’t stress it enough. LOOK AT THE SCREEN AND MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHICH OPTIONS YOU ARE SELECTING. So choose the “Guided install (use entire disk)” option. CHOOSE THE EXTERNAL HARD DRIVE HERE AND NOT YOUR WINDOWS HARD DRIVE PLEASE!!. You can identify the correct drive by looking at the size. It should usually show up as the second drive there anyway. This is why many install instructions, suggest that you disconnect your primary drive before you attempt to install on an external drive. That way you will only see the external drive and won’t get confused. But for laptop users, disconnecting the internal drive may not be so easy and quick. AND YOU DO NOT NEED TO DO THAT IF YOU ARE CAREFUL.
  • Go ahead and enter your information on the “Who are you?” screen  and click ‘Advanced’ button on the ‘Ready to install” screen that follows (which shows the information you have selected to get your confirmation). Install GRUB on the appropriate drive (/dev/sdb or whatever it is). (Do not install on (hd0) which is the default option)
  • The installation should start now.
  • After it is done, you will be prompted to remove the CD and reboot.
  • On Rebooting, you should see the GRUB menu. Booting from Linux here most probably won’t work. Here is why – When you installed Ubuntu on this external drive, you booted from CD (so GRUB thinks it is being installed on HD1 (HD0 being the CD) – see our boot order above. Now when you boot from the external drive without the CD, this is HD0 and your Windows is HD1. So GRUB tries to load Linux from the Windows partition – and that fails and gives you error 17.
  • To fix this – just type ‘e’ and see that it is (hd1,0). Change this to (hd0, 0) and now Ubuntu should load. But this is only a temporary change.
  • So go into Ubuntu and edit the /boot/grub/menu.lst file and change (hd1,0) to (hd0, 0) everywhere in this file and save it and Reboot.

Now everything should be fine!

Enjoy!!

My Favorite Firefox Plugins

Here is a list of addons I use for my Firefox:

  • Live HTTP Headers: Can’t live without this one
  • Google Toolbar
  • Web Developer
  • DOM Inspector
  • InspectThis
  • JSView
  • Map This: Excellent integration with Google Maps (allows you to select multiline addresses!)
  • FoxyProxy: Allows you to configure many proxies and switch between proxies easily from the status bar!
  • lori: Life-Of-Request-Info.. nifty.. shows time to first byte, response times, etc.
  • ViewSourceWith: View source with say TextPad
  • …more…

Hubs, Repeaters, Bridges, Switches, Routers and Gateways

I have always wanted to do this. What better way to do this than when I am studying Computer Networks. Knowledge courtesy: Computer Networks by Tanenbaum.

Application Layer : Application Gateway
Transport Layer : Transport Gateway
Network Layer : Router
Data Link Layer : Bridge, Switch
Physical Layer : Repeater, Hub

Repeaters: Just amplify volts.
Hubs: Can connect many entities. Frames arriving from any one is sent out on all others.
Bridges: Bridges are used to connect LANs. They connect 2 ethernets. They do not examine packets. So they can transport any type of payloads – IPv4, IPv6, AppleTalk, ATM, OSI or any other kind. A bridge can have line cards for different network types and different speeds.
Switches: Switches also route on frame addresses. Swich is almost like a multi-port Bridge. However switches often are used to connect individual computers. Switches do not broadcast like hubs.
Routers: Examine addresses in packets and route based on them.

Customizing your machine and getting rid of OEM specific crap!

1. The Boot logo:
Replace the C:\logo.sys

2. OEM Logo in My Computer Properties:
Your infos and logo are stored under these files: c:\windows\system\oeminfo.ini and c:\windows\system\oemlogo.bmp.
If don’t need them, simply delete these files.

3. IE Logo in the top right corner of the browser:
This is a 22×22 icon.
98/ME: Change or simply keep the HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\Software\Microsoft\InternetExplorer/Toolbar/SmallBitmap, SmBrandBitmap, BrandBitmap values blank.

4. IE Title will have the OEM name in it:
Check HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\Software\Microsoft\InternetExplorer\Main and HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\InternetExplorer\Main.
Change “Window Title” value here.

Change ‘BigBitmap’ value here

XP: Run gpedit.msc

Video Editing, Conversion, Storage and more

VHS Copy Protection:

To prevent unauthorized copying of prerecorded VHS tapes (especially Disney), Macrovision came up with this scheme of copy protection. Came into existence in 1986. When a Macrovision-enabled VHS is played back, it looks normal. However, when you try to copy it using 2 back-to-back VCRs, the electronic pulses added by Macrovision in the non-visible part of the VHS tape (vertical blanking interval) make the copying VCR think that the signals are too strong. So the copying VCR tries to weaken the signals which basically rolls the picture, loses color or brightness randomly or suffer from flashing.

Ways to prevent this:
  • Use a very old pre-macrovision VCR
  • Use a RCA RF Modulator
  • Buy special hardware like GoDVD (there are several out there to remove this copy protection)

Macrovision is an analog copy protection and hence there is no software solution to get rid of it.


VCD/SVCD


DVD (DVD-R,DVD-RW,DVD+R,DVD+RW,DVD-RAM)

DVD-ROM Drive: Means a read-only drive where you can play your DVDs.

DVD+R/DVD+RW:
Alliance: Dell, HP, Verbatim, Philips, Ricoh, Sony, Yamaha, Thomson

Links:

http://www.DVDPlusRW.org

http://www.dvdrw.com

DVD+R DL is the double layer DVD+R that can fit upto 4 hours of high quality video. This format is also widely supported in all DVD players. The capacity is whopping 8.5GB!!

DVD-R/DVD-RW: Has a slighly more compatibility percentage that the plus alliance.
Alliance: Pioneer, TDK

Links:

http://www.dvdforum.org

DVD-RAM: Less compatible with DVD Players/ROMs
Writable DVD but works as a virtual hard drive. Random RW access (unlike DVD-RW which is sequential)
Alliance: Panasonic, Toshiba, Hitachi

Links:

http://www.dvdforum.org

MiniDVD/cDVD: Like a mini-CD.


DVD Regions:

DVDs come in PAL/NTSC formats and they also have an additional thing called the Region code. Motion picture studios in USA release the movie DVDs all over the world. In order to prevent unauthorised export of DVDs which get released in USA before the rest of the world, they introduced the region codes. A DVD released in one region does not play in DVD Players in some other region.

There are 6 regions defined as follows:

Graphics courtesy: Sony

  • Region 1 - The U.S., U.S. territories and Canada
  • Region 2 - Europe, Japan, the Middle East, Egypt, South Africa, Greenland
  • Region 3 - Taiwan, Korea, the Philippines, Indonesia, Hong Kong
  • Region 4 - Mexico, South America, Central America, Australia, New Zealand, Pacific Islands, Caribbean
  • Region 5 - Russia (okay, former Russia), Eastern Europe, India, most of Africa, North Korea, Mongolia
  • Region 6 - China

NTSC/PAL Formats, Conversion and Multisystem TV/VCRs

Courtesy: Wikipedia
Legend: Yellow: PAL, Green: NTSC, Orange: SECAM

Two main differences:

1. PAL has better resolution
2. NTSC is a higher framerate (29.97 fps vs 25 fps for PAL) so less flicker

(Blank) VHS cassettes by themselves do not have any format attached to them. It is when you record video on them that they get that assigned to them.

A NTSC cassette usually works fine in PAL systems but not vice versa.


Solutions:

  • VHS to DVD/VCD
  • Audio Cassettes to CDs
  • Analog camcorder to Digital MiniDV/other media
  • PAL to NTSC

Television Types

  • CRT
  • Projection TV
  • Flat Screen

What is HDTV?

HDTV is the broadcast format of the future-and of the present. More and more stations have been upgrading from NTSC to 16:9 HDTV. HDTV broadcasts will be in 16:9 formatting.

There are two types of high-definition televisions:
1. HDTV: Also known as high-definition TV. These have a built-in high-definition receiver that allows the TV to receive over-the-air high-definition broadcasts. These TVs require either an indoor or an outdoor antenna to receive high-definition over-the-air broadcasts (such as CBS or NBC).
2. HDTV Monitors: These are capable of displaying a high-definition TV signal, but require the separate purchase of a high-definition receiver and antenna to receive high-definition broadcasts.

Basically they still fall under the “Rear Projection TV” category – which means the projection cathode ray tubes, commonly known as CRTs, are found within the set and behind a plastic projection screen. The light from the CRTs strikes a mirror and is reflected onto the rear of the screen, where it forms an image you can see on the other side. Instead of the traditional direct view TVs you’re used to, where you view the picture directly on a single tube, rear projection TVs use CRTs, a series of focusing lenses, a mirror, and a display screen.

The screens on the TVs most of us are still watching today (referred to these days as “analog” or “traditional”) are roughly square and have an “aspect ratio” of 4:3. That is, they’re just slightly wider than they are tall. But widescreen HDTVs have an aspect ratio of 16:9. As you can see, they’re much wider than they are tall. So, what’s the advantage? We thought you’d never ask.

Movies shown at a theater have pictures that are wider than your TV’s screen. By the time a movie is released on video tape or shown on TV it has been “modified to fit your screen.” Unfortunately, they “modify” it by chopping off the sides of the picture. Widescreen TVs use the entire TV screen to let you see the whole picture.

The resolution for traditional TVs is of the order of 200,000 pixels whereas for HDTV it is ~2 Million. There were several resolution standards that were approved by FCC in 1996 and the most popular ones are 480i (regular analog TV), 480p, 720p and 1080i. The number is number of horizontal lines and how they are drawn (i-nterlace scanning or p-rogressive scan). The traditional TVs actually use 525 lines but some of these lines are used for things other than picture and the number is close to 480 and hence the name 480i instead of 525i. Interlacing means constructing the picture using odd-even lines and Progressive (which is only found in HDTV and HDTV Monitors since only digital broadcasts and digital sources like DVD players send the signal this way) is like computer monitors – from top to bottom in the order of lines.

The audio is CD quality sound as compared to analog sound which is like FM Radio. It supports Dolby® Digital sound that can recreate surround sound effects from five different speakers with the right kind of home theater equipment.

Source: Circuit City Knowledge base